Champion Blower and Forge Drill Press Feed Arm
The following is the patent filed for the Champion Forge drill press No. 200 No. 767,282. PATENTED AUG. 9, 1904 H. B. KEIPER. DRILLING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 27. 1902. N0 MODEL. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1 Y mu M L nden I'oz M 1V1 human i Q A No. 767,282. PATENTED AUG. 9, 1904. H. B. KEIPER. DRILLING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 27. 1902. K0 MODEL. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2. avwamfoz operation. UNITED STATES Patented August 9, 1904. PATENT OFFICE. DRILLING-MACHINE. SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 767,282, dated August 9, 1904. Application filed December 27, 1902. Serial No. 136,855. (No model.) To (all whom, it may concern.- Be it known that I, HENRY B. KEIPER, acitizen of the United States, residing at Lancaster, in the county of Lancaster and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Drilling-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. This invention relates to drilling-machines of that type in which the drill-spindle is coupled to a non-rotatable feed-screw fitted in a rotatable feed-nut or quill which is turned to move the screw longitudinally, and thus feed the drill. After the hole in the workpiece'is drilled it becomes necessary, of course, to return the feed-screw to its primary position, so as to withdraw the bit and be ready for the next drilling operation. This is usually accomplished by reversing or unscrewing the feed-nut, so as to move the screw in a direction opposite to its feed movement, which, as well known, is generally a long tiresome Various devices have been employed for effecting a quick return of the screw and connected parts-for instance, a crank-wheel and suitable gearing for rotating the feed-nut or quill reversely; but nevertheless such return action necessitates the consumption of more or less time and effort, ex- cept where it is automatically performed in a power-machine. The principal object of the present invention is to provide improved feeding mechanism in machines of the character stated whereby the feed-screw and drill-spindle coupled thereto can be lowered or advanced freely to bring the drill to the work, then gradually moved by rotation of the feed-nut to feed the drill in the usual way, and instantly returned to withdraw the drill without the necessity of unscrewing or reversely rotating the feednut. The invention will first be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, and will then be pointed out more particularly in the annexed claims. In said drawings I have illustrated my invention embodied in a vertical or upright drill of well-known construction; but it will be understood that the invention is susceptible of general application and can advantageously be applied to horizontal, angular, and other types of drills, as well as boring or other analogous machines. Figure 1 is a side elevation of said machine having my invention embodied therein, the base and work-supporting table being not shown. Fig. 2 is a similar enlarged elevation of the feeding mechanism, the rotatable feed-nut and its connected partsbeing in section. Fig. 3 is a horizontal section on line 3 3 of Fig. 2 looking upward as indicated by the arrows. Fig. iis a horizontal section on line i 4 of Fig. 2, showing the movable screwthreaded devices in the feed-nut engaging the feed-screw. Fig. 5 is asection similar to Fig. 4, showing the said devices not engaging the feed-screw. Fig. 6 is a bottom plan view of the feed-nut and its bottom collar for operating said engaging or gripping devices. Fig. 7 is a side elevation of the feeding mechanism with a different device from that shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 for turning or rotating the feed-nut. In the drawings, A designates the frame of the machine. The letterB denotes the drill-spindle, which may be driven by gears C and D, operated either by hand or power. This drill-spindle, which is splined to its gear so as to move up and down in the usual way, is connected by any loose coupling E to the feed-screw F. Preferably a lever G is employed for raising and lowering the drill when the feed-screw is disengaged from its feed-nut and allowed free vertical movement therein. Said lever, which may be fulcrumed to a swinging link H, depending from the upper part of the machine-frame, is shown connected to the coupling E, and its rear arm carries a weight J, housed in the hollow backbone of the frame. This weight should be heavy enough to lift the spindle and withdraw the drill when the feed-screw is disengaged from its feed-nut and allowed free play in the manner hereinafter explained. The letter K, Figs. 1 to 65, inclusive, denotes the feed-nut, by rotation of which the screw is moved downward to feed the drill. Said feed-nut, comprising a sleeve or tubular body with means for engaging and coacting with the screw, journaled in a bearing L at the upper part of the machine-frame, and, as shown, it is held in position by a collar M, rigidly attached to its upper end, as by asetscrew or set-screws, Figs. 1, 3, and 7, as well as by a ring or collar N, secured tightly to its lower end, so as to rotate with the nut, but also capable of being turned a certain distance independently for a purpose presently explained. The ring N is shown in Fig. 2 formed with an inner flange which fits between the bottom of the bearing L and an outer flange on the lower end of the feed-nut, thus holding said ring in place. The feed-nut does not constantly engage the feed-screw, as in the ordinary construction of machines of the present character, but has a central bore loosely receiving said screw and. has one or more, preferably two, screw threaded gripping devices adapted to be closed or moved inward'to engage the screw and to be opened or moved outward to release the same. In the construction illustrated an oppositely-disposed pair of such gripping devices are shown, (designated by the letter 0, Figs. 2, 4, and They consist of blocks fitted in transverse or radial slideways in the feed-nut and having their confronting faces screwthreaded to engage and coact with the feedscrew. Said blocks are shown formed transversely with the vertical slots or slightlyel'ongated apertures in which are located suitable rings or cylinders I, which are set eccentrically on vertical rods or bolts R, fitted in bearings in the sleeve or body of the feednut above and below the slideways and gripping devices or blocks. Any equivalent eccentric devices may of course be employed. Removable bushings Q may be provided for said rods to prevent wear of the sleeve. The lower ends of these rods are shown provided with toothed pinions S, which engage short annular or segmental. racks T on the bottom of the ring N, said racks having, preferably, suitable projections at their ends to limit their movement with respect to the pinions. A single annular rack or gear could be employed in some instances, and other means may be employed for moving the block in and out. When the ring N is in one position, as represented in Fig. 6, the rods Rhold the eccentrics I in such position as to keep the gripping devices or screw-threaded blocks 0 in engagement with the feed-screw, as shown in Fig. 4, so that as the feed-nut is rotated the screw is gradually moved to feed the drill; but when the ring N is turned to its other position the pinions are turned by the racks, (about a halfturn in the present instance',) so that the eccentrics swing around and move the gripping devices outward, as indicated in Fig. 5, so that the screw can move freely through the feednut. It will be observed that in Fig. i the longer radii of the eccentrics are interposed between their axes and the innermost sides of the apertures in the blocks 0, while in Fig. 5said longer radii are interposed between said axes and the outermost sides of said apertures. The bearing L is shown formed interiorly with an annular recess to receive the outer faces of the blocks 0 when they are opened or moved away from the feed-screw. By this means the feed-nut can be disengaged from the feed-screw, so that the drill-spindle can be adjusted by the lever G to its proper position to start the drilling operation. Then the feed-nut can be caused to engage the screw, and when said nut is rotated the screw will move and feed the drill. hen the drilling operation is completed or when it is desired to withdraw the drill at any time, the feed-nut can be disengaged by turning the ring N, which may have a milled surface, as shown, for convenient manipulation, and thereupon the drillspindle will be raised or returned instantly to its normal or initial starting position by the weight J. The drill can then be lowered to any desired position and the work continued by again engaging the nut and screw. In place of the weight J on lever G any suitably-arranged weight or other device may be connected to the feed-screw for effecting an instant return movement, or such weight or device may be dispensed with and the spindle may be raised and lowered entirely by the lever or by other means or by the hand of the operator directly. However, the construction shown is preferred. Any suitable means may be employed for rotating the feed-nut. In Fig. 3 a worm or endless screw U is shown engaging an annular series of teeth V on the body of the nut. The worm-shaft has rigidly mounted on its front end a crank-wheel N for rotating it by hand, and it has also aratchet-wheel X there on engaged by a pawl carried by a lever Y, which is suitably connected to the driving mechanism to turn the worm-shaft automatically. In Fig. 7 the worm is dispensed with and a ratchet-wheel Z is formed on or secured to the collar M, engaged by a ratchet on an automatically-operated lever. Both constructions are well known, and hence further description is deemed. unnecessary. The invention is susceptible of various changes in details of construction and arrangement without departing from, its scope. Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is 1. In a drilling-machine, the combination with the drill-spindle coupled to a feed-screw, of a rotatable feed-nut inclosing said screw and adapted to engage or disengage the same, and means for operating said feed-nut to engage or disengage said screw, whereby the screw can be advanced to feed the drill or allowed to move freely in the feed-nut when disengaged by the latter, means for quickly returning the feed-screw to normal position when disengaged, and means for rotating said feed-nut, substantially as described. 2. In a drilling-machine, the combination with the drill-spindle coupled to a feed-screw, of a feed-nut for said screw comprising a rotatable body, having an axial opening through which the screw can move freely, a movable device carried thereby having screw-threads to coact with the screw, a rod journaled in said body having a pinion thereon and eccentrically connected to said movable device, and a rack engaging said pinion and rotatable with said body but capable of being turned independently, whereby said device can be caused to engage and disengage the screw, and means for rotating said feed-nut, substantially as described. 3. In a drilling-machine, the combination with the drill-spindle coupled to a feed-screw, of a feed-nut for said screw comprising a rotatable body, having an axial opening through which the screw can move freely, and a number of transversely-movable devices carried by said body having screw-threads on their inner faces adapted to coact with the screw, rods journaled in said body eccentrically connected to said devices, and having pinions thereon, and a ring rotatable with said body but capable of an independent turning having an annular rack or racks engaging said pinions, wherebysaid ring may be turned to cause said devices to move in and out to engage and disengage the screw, and means for rotating said feed-nut, substantially as described. 4. In a drilling-machine, the combination with the drill-spindle coupled to a feed-screw, of a rotatable body loosely inclosing said screw having transverse or radial slideways therein, movable blocks fitted in said slideways having screw-threads on their inner faces adapted to coact with the screw, for advancing theIatter by the rotation of said body, with the drill-spindle coupled to a feed-screw, of a feednut for said screw comprisinga body having an axial opening through which the screw can move freely, transversely-movable devices carried by said body screw-threaded on their inner faces to coact with the screw, rods journaled in said body having eccentric parts located in transverse slots in said desaid feed-nut and having a rack or racks engaging said pinions, substantially as described. 7. In a drilling-machine, a non-rotatable feed-screw and a drill-spindle coupled thereto for longitudinal movement therewith while permitting independent rotation thereof, in combination with a rotatable feed-nut having means for engaging the screw to advance the latter when said feed-nut is rotated, means for rotating said feed-nut, means for releasing the screw from said engaging means, and means for quickly automatically returning the feedscrew to its normal position when released by said engaging a means, substantially as described. 8. In combination with a non-rotating feedscrew, a rotatable body through which said screw passes,'means carried by said body for engaging the threads of said screw to advance the latter by the rotation of said body, means for rotating said body, means for releasing the screw from said engaging means, and means for adjusting the screw and feeding by hand independently of the action of said rotating body when the screw is released by said engaging means, substantially as described. In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses. HENRY B. KEIPER." Witnesses: J. GUY ESHLEMAN, L. B. KEIPER
![code[Maglio.gif]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_tGBIK49g0ibHzosM3y1GTRVIvZ79PS3rHFPAhTwwGLuPfaDxZBPwv4T7nGe6bT4gZw2fCdmISM-YMfcRGBZJI742k5fpTPW87mIlTyAZSJ0FlJIQ=s0-d "emotion[Maglio.gif]")
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Hi Henry, Work exelent, very nice drill, I have one like yours , I bought a week ago. start rebuilding in a few days more , Your work has helped me a lot. let me show you my proyect. grateful to show your work.
sorry , I mistook your name , you're Hank
Hi Fermin Vite, No problem on the name> In fact when I read your post it didn't even register to me you wrote Henry. Hank Rearden is a character in Ayn Rands book "Atlas Shrugged". He was a steel mill owner and invented a new alloy named Rearden Steel. Anyway it is one of my favorites. As far as your drill press it looks in good working order. I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have as you restore your press. Welcome to The Iron Forge Fire.
Nice Hit N Miss
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Nice restoration on that drill Hank. Looks almost too pretty to use. I've never used one but that's one of the things I'm on the lookout for.
Thanks for the admiration. I'm not the type for conventional exercise. So a hand crank drill gives me the cardio I need at 51. Sort of a one sided speed bag. LOL
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Hi , I have a question. I have not the drill arm, You know? the gear arm, Can you send me some pictures? I will send it to produce. So I need some pictures to see details in special of the gear. Can you help me?
Sure. I'll try to get it to you later today. I'll take a few pics with a framing square beside it for measuring reference. Just to be sure you need a picture of the hand crank and gear? If not let me know. That's what I think you asked for.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Yes, I need pics of hand crank.
Thanks Hank.
Here are some pics of the champion No. 200 forge drill handle with gear. If I'll post measurements for any parts you request. let me know. 
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Thanks Hank, are pics sufficient. i can see teeth number in the gear, the gear has 16 teeth and can see other screw that didn´t know. No problem with the sizes. Gave me some days, may be two weeks, I will send to manufacture handle and gear and I´ll show you.
Thanks Hank.
Beautiful press there! I am an amature tinkerer, I don't really have a shop yet but have a nice collection of tools for when i get to that point. I am currently working on a smaller champion drill press I got that was rusted over and seized up and then may restore my other one too (its actually in decent shape). So far i was able to disassemble it, wire brush the major rust off and did a vinegar soak to get the rest off. but i am having trouble with flash rusting turning the metal a goldish color in the process of drying the pieces (have been using heat gun) Am I to just use steel wool and then clean with denatured alcohol? After that I am looking to finish it off. I can't decide if to paint it black or oil it to keep that great metal look. how is painting regarded in restoration of tools of this sort? what parts do you not paint? (i assume threads on screws, any metal to metal contact poiint on shaft etc...) I might sell this smaller one to pay for another tool since i already have one. I will then use a lithium grease for the moving parts. thank you for posting this great write up
Hi Jacob, I answered the paint question on your other post. "Restoring a drill press" I didn't paint any moving parts that contacted other parts. The gears I painted the teeth. They aren't machined gears on my drill. Only cast. Paint doesn't seem to have any effect on the performance. I also ran a tap down all threads. There was a lot of crude in all of the threads. I also cleaned all oil holes thoroughly. Some hole had mud bugs make nest over the years on my drill. I use garage lube in a can to lube the moving parts. Looking forward to seeing your post drill on the forum.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
What a wonderful thread Hank ,well documented . You have done a dam fine job restoring and bringing that tool back into useful service . Its always good to see old tools put back into use Rob![[smile]](https://cdn.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif "Smile - :)")
Thanks Rob, There's' nothing that gives me more pride than acknowledgement from others on a job well done or knowing others can benefit from the work as well. It's hard to find a good drill press made in the last twenty to fifty years. Had to back 100. LOL
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Hey Hank, How about a video of that piece of art at work?? Please!
Yep, great idea Dustin. I'll put a video together.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Thanks Hank, cant wait to see it!
Well it took forever for me to convert my SONY handycam to a proper file format that I could publish to Youtube. I wouldn't have wasted money on the handycam if I knew this was a problem. Had to buy software to convert it to acceptable format. Well here's my attempt at movie making.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Very nice smooth machine, Craigslist here I come!
Cool vid. I like those old machines. Rule #10; "I can make that" translates to; "I'm to cheap to buy it new."
Very nice job on the post drill. What is the function of the post that is to right of the gear handle. Does the gear handle go on that post and mesh with that gear? I am working on a Champion post drill similar to your 200. -mark
Hi Mark, A thumb screw on the crank gear holds the crank and the gear does mesh giving the drill a second speed. If you can, post some pictures of your drill.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Hi! The drill I have has no model number or patent numbers but does have,- Champion Blower & Forge Co, Lancaster Pa U.S.A. Warranted every drill. In order to switch the handle gear I will have to figure how to get the shaft out of the gear so it can slide on the other pin. When facing the front of drill there is lever on the top left side that engages a gear causing it to mesh with another gear causing it to spin but I can't see what this does as the gear doesn't seem to turn anything. The drill is an 8" and will attempt to attach pictures. Many Thanks for your help!!! -Mark 
Additional photos - Mark
Hi Mark, Your drill is very interesting. It looks like you have multiple feed speeds as well as a 2 speed drill. I don't see a manual feed option. Is that correct. It looks like a great piece to have in the shop. You should be able to mount your crank on the rear post for the slower speed. The thumb screw should ride in the slot to prevent the handle from coming off of the shaft while cranking. On the main drive shaft it should be tighten on the flat of the shaft. I can't tell if you have a d-shaft by your photo.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Hi! I would like to know what the purpose of the lever on the front that engages the gear, the gear just spins when engaged but doesn't seem to do anything. the lever and gear is visible in the second picture. I can manually feed the drill by turning the top wheel but there is no knob to assist. -Mark
Nice job on the restoration, the detailed post and the great video! Hope you have some way to develop your left arm and shoulder (or know a good tailor). A friend of mine just built a blacksmith shop which is filled with antique machines and tools including a post drill very similar to the Champion 200 that you restored. (Sorry--the press is in a corner and I didn't notice the model number. I'll get a photo of the side of the frame next time.) The only big differences between his and yours are: The next time I'm up that way I'd like to get this working, but will have limited time, so I'm wondering if you can suggest where to start looking for trouble, or if you can suggest that I just overlooked some other feature that connects the hub at the top to the acme-threaded shaft.
It's all in apple-pie order except that the auto feed mechanism at the top doesn't advance the quill. The pawl engages the circular rack on the top and the top hub assembly turns as the crank is operated. The quill just stays at the same depth.
Hello and welcome, Time was the most valuable thing in the restoration. I didn't have a manual or guidance or spare parts. So I studied and thought about how it worked before I did anything. If the auto feed has a similar look I would guess The cam that closes teeth on the thread is gummed up preventing engagement. I have to play with the engagement to get things aligned when I use the feed. Pay attention to the coupling of the quill and feed thread. Chance are the threads are backward. You have to alternate loosening the jam nuts a little at a time. I'll be watching for you progress if you post your work.
I bet the garden looks great!
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
I had an AHA! moment this morning. After looking closely at the photo in the OP that shows the restored mechanism for engaging the auto advance to the acme-thread shaft at the top, I went to your video and discovered where you turned the bottom wheel on the advance mechanism to engage the auto feed (at 3:22). I'll get someone to try that and I'm sure it will work because the machine is in really good shape. 
Hank, your page is exactly what I've been searching for - thank you. My Champion no. 200 is almost exactly like yours, but I don't have the long lever that is on the right of your machine. It doesn't seem to be a "missing" piece on my drill, as there's no place I can see where it should be. I'm restoring my drill in a minimalist way --- not a tear down and rebuild. I'm having trouble switching between manual feed and auto feed. It appears that the two little cam gears are locked; you pictured this push-out mechanism on the inner shaft nicely. I've been wrestling and using brake cleaner but it's hard to get leverage in somewhere to break this free. What can be removed, minimally, to free it up? And what are the actual steps for switching to auto feed? I watched your youtube video and it was a bit obscure. There are two labels stamped into the body of the drill that read "closed" and "open", and I suspect this relates to the little horizontal hand-wheel which should somehow move those little cam-gears. But when I turn it, the who inner shaft assembly moves, all the way up to the other hand wheel on top. I've read through your play by play but am still a bit baffled. Update! Figured it out. There are two bolts on top that need to be loosened (9/16th), then the lower wheel can be turned. It was all jammed up but I got it loose without taking it all apart. 
It looks like you have a nice drill, As far as the feed goes I'll recommended the following. Those gears need to mesh, so you may need to wiggle the top wheel as well as turn the crank to get them to fully engage. On my drill I hold the bottom wheel stationary and turn the top clockwise to lock the jaws. This will be toward the side marked closed on the left. The right side of the feed head should be marked open. I use a spay lithium lube for garage doors to lube the drill. Brake cleaner will do a good job cleaning off the gunk. Every rotating shaft has a weep hole. Use a pipe cleaner to make sure it's open. I hope this answered your questions. I use my drill for some thick steel. I do work up a good sweat. One of the reasons a like it.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
Thanks Hank! Am I correct in discovering that these two bolts (see pic) on the top need to be loosened before switching between auto and manual feed? And then tightened back down after switching? I was surprised they didn't just have little levers on them, and in your Youtube video it seems you switched in a much simpler way. But your drill has an additional long handle on the left side of your drill, which mine doesn't have. Is that what you use to lock and unlock the feed settings? Thanks for your great page. 
I'm thrilled I found this post. I just discovered a Champion #200 almost identical to this in an old barn that belonged to my grandfather. I've been researching everything I can about doing a proper restoration and it appears I've found it. Very informative post. Thanks
Oh my! ... a lot of work and a result worthy of a museum restoration. Congratulations ... however ( you knew it was coming I love old machines but I draw the line at horse power ... I mean hand power The government cannot give to anybody anything that the government does not first take from somebody else. ) Hardly a practical tool. Just watching you operate it makes me tired.
At least I don't picture you as the angel in your avatar and can put a face to the name ![[biggrin]](https://cdn.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif "Big Grin - :D")
![[thumb]](https://cdn.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif "Thumb - :thumb:")
Adrian Pierce Rogers
X2 on Marc's comments, a lot of work, I guess it is the luv od the holy that you do this. I like the color scheme, looks great. Do It Right The First Time !
GrevB
Location: SoCal, USA
gearsgalore78 wrote: Thanks Hank! Am I correct in discovering that these two bolts (see pic) on the top need to be loosened before switching between auto and manual feed? And then tightened back down after switching? I was surprised they didn't just have little levers on them, and in your Youtube video it seems you switched in a much simpler way. But your drill has an additional long handle on the left side of your drill, which mine doesn't have. Is that what you use to lock and unlock the feed settings? Thanks for your great page. No those set the cams inside the head. loosening them may help free things up. You should be able to hold the ratchet rear in the photo and the bottom wheel and turn them in opposite direction to engage and disengage the feed mechanism. Glad you got it going. Sorry for the late reply. I just read the post.
ABANA is making Johnstown PA. It's new home. An April meet is in the works.
I just picked up a 200 few days ago.. She was seized up solid.. Has taken 3 days to get the shaft to turn.. Working on the auto feed clutch now.. Nice restoration.. Loving seeing the old drills having new life.
HI Hank:
I'm a newbie, ran across this thread doing some research. Not sure this will be seen, but thought I would tell my story here.
40+ years ago I was at a farm auction checking out what I might find useful. I ran across a box of jumbled parts, as I sorted through the parts I realized I had found the mother of all post drills. I had seen post drills before, all of them very simple small units, in fact I had one in my shop. When the auction came to the box, the auctioneer said, we have a box full of machinery parts, might be good for scrap, what am I bid. Nobody bid. The auctioneer said, who will give me $10.00 for it, I shot up my hand and he said sold. I loaded up my treasure and took it home. Everything was filthy from who knows how long it had been laying in a shed. Spent a day cleaning everything and found I had purchased a Champion Blower Forge post drill No. 201. Over the next month or so I spent a lot of time scouring libraries (remember this is pre internet days) I got lucky and found an old Popular Mechanics that had an article on post drills and from that and just studying the parts, I was able to assemble the drill into working order. Two things were obvious, the spindle was missing and the bore on the frame, for the shaft was so worn I could wiggle it with my hand. I took it all apart and took the frame to a machine shop where it was bored out true and bronze bushings inserted. For the spindle I used a piece of pipe and 1/4 inch rod to fabricate a workable solution.
I didn't have a post for mounting the drill, so I took my chainsaw and cut one to mount in my shop.
I'm not sure if the large left hand flywheel is original, but it sure makes using the drill a lot easier, especially when boring metal. One thing I always planned to do but never did was to rig a treadle with couple hundred pound flywheel, so I could run the drill and have both hands free.
I should point out, I live off the grid, have done so since 1978. Our home is solar powered, plus a small hydroelectric system. So the post drill has been useful over the years.
We are planning on moving in a year or so and it's time for the post drill to find a new home, so it is for sale, but shipping would be a killer as it weighs near 300 lbs with the table.
Below are some pictures 
Hi, Nice number 200.. I also have a 200 and a 201.. I was hoping to get a photo of the table handle so I can reproduce one.. Any photos out there with measurements?
I've never seen the actual handle myself, but I think it would be fairly simple for someone with the right tools or a machine shop to make one. It's a 6 sided (sectagon?) that is 1.70 inches across and the sides measure .99 inches. If you have the ratchet piece (shown in the picture) any shop could fabricate the piece. It would have to be hollow or have an indent in the center to accommodate the large screw head that hold the ratchet to the base. I believe you would want a handle at least 18" long to give you leverage to move the table up or down.
Source: https://www.theironforgefire.com/post/restoration-of-champion-no-200-drill-press-7125627
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